The Azores islands are an autonomous region of nine Portuguese islands clustered in three different sections, which sit off the coast of Portugal about 900 miles. While the exact founding of these islands is shrouded in mystery, it’s thought that the Azores was founded either by Diogo de Silves in 1427 or Goncalo Velho Cabral in 1432. Before this, however, earlier maps seem to have included the Azores as early as 1351 with the publication of the Medici Atlas. And still earlier, the Azores may have been known to figures of Greek antiquity, who told tales of the distant Atlantic Isles of the Blest or Fortunate Islands.
Some speculate that Azores were so named from a Portuguese variant of azul, meaning blue. And indeed, the azure blue abounds, from the glassy lakes that dot the islands to the bulbous hydrangeas that paint the fields and roadside. The islands’ geographic features mark the magic of the Azores. The thick coniferous forests bring to mind the towering trees of the Colorado Rockies, which juxtapose stunningly beside the expansive Atlantic Ocean. Isolated rainstorms are expected most days, which are a feature — not an inconvenience — of the islands. The sedate rainfall is often short-lived and stirs up an earthy, calming scent.
It’s en vogue to call the Azores the next Iceland or the Hawaii of the Atlantic. Either of these characterizations under-appreciates the Azores as an incomparable subtropical destination. For one, the Azores is more untouched by tourism, due in part to fewer routes than are offered to Iceland and Hawaii. In light of this, it’s easy to find solitude, even at the most popular sights. You’ll never fight to get perfect Instagram-ready shots of the many stunning landscapes.
In this series, I take you along for three days of exploration around the island of São Miguel, which is the largest and most prominent island of the Azores.
Vista do Rei
Any international flight to the Azores will take you first to Ponta Delgada Airport (PDL) on the island of São Miguel, from which you can then fly or boat to the other islands of the Azores. With only three days in the Azores, I stayed on São Miguel. There was plenty on the island to fill three days, though it could have easily been three weeks.
I landed at 8:30 AM after a four hour overnight flight from Boston. After grabbing my rental car, I drove to the westernmost town of Sete Cidades. The city itself is situated in a crater My first stop was the iconic, picturesque Miradouro da Vista do Rei (King’s Lookout). This view is the most famous of the Azores Islands, and you should not miss it. You’ll be met with the contrasting green and blue twin lakes. While they’re connected, the light reflects differently on the two sections, making one appear green while the other looks blue. Parking is available directly in front of the viewpoint.
Behind the viewpoint, stands the abandoned Hotel Monte Palace. It’s entirely accessible though a bit eery. There are 3-4 stories where you can scale the stairs to get an even higher view of Sete Cidades and other surrounding landscapes.
Boca do Inferno
After you’ve taken in the view of the lake, drive ten minutes up the road to the Boca do Inferno lookout It’s one of the highest points on the western side of São Miguel. There are a couple parking options. Either park outside the narrow road that leads to the path to the lookout, or you can drive down the narrow road to a small carpark. I recommend that you take the former option so that you can enjoy the 15 minute walk through the forested area which surrounds the narrow, dirt road to the lookout. I enjoyed the calm feel of the forest and its piney smell. Along the way, you can take detours in order to see the Lagoa do Canário. There are even some hiking trails that cut into the forest.
Sete Cidades
After taking in the views, I recommend heading down into Sete Cidades to explore the city and the
lakes more up close. I drove straight to the local bike shop (leaving car parked on the street in front of the shop) to rent a bike for about $5 for four hours. Rentals are available every day from 9:30 AM until 5:30 PM. You may reserve directly with the bike shop, named Eco-Atlântida Sete Cidades, by calling one of three numbers. In an email I was directed to call: +351 296295177. Their Facebook page also contains a couple extra numbers. Alternatively, you can book online with Azores for All. Select Equipment Rental and complete the form. Read more about the suggested trails here.
During your ride, don’t miss the Sete Cidades Village Church. I just happened to come across it during my ride, and I found it to be an especially tranquil spot.
For lunch, I recommend the Lagoa Azul Restaurant. I found it to be a bit busy, but the food was great.
- Address: R. da Caridade 28, Sete Cidades, Portugal
- Coordinates: 37.8609175,-25.7941921
- Street view (it looks unmarked here)
Ponta da Ferraria
At this point, I was satisfied with my experience in Sete Cidades. Next, I drove 15 minutes from Sete Cidades to the natural hot pool of Ponta da Ferraria. There’s a parking lot once you’ve driven down the path to the hot pool. The path to the pool is well-marked, so you’ll easily find it after parking. Remember to wear shoes as the rocks are quite rough and jagged. The water is so warm, so you needn’t brace yourself!
Mosteiros beach
After about 90 minutes at the hot pool, I drove 15 minutes to finish the day at the nearby Mosteiros beach. The black sand beach and the gorgeous islets of statue-like lava rock, just off shore, are famous attractions. Combined with beautiful scenic views and natural sea-side swimming pools, a visit to this approximately 570 year old fishing village is well worth the side trip off the main highway that circumnavigates São Miguel.
