The second leg of my trip took me to the northern reaches of New Zealand’s South Island, where I spanned the regions of Nelson, Tasman, and Marlborough in just two days. I chose this instead of Christchurch because it offered better opportunities to be immersed in nature. With Abel Tasman National Park and the magnificent Queen Charlotte track close by, there’s plenty to do for those looking to engage the land more seriously.
Additionally, Nelson is a cheap and easy flight from Auckland. I paid about $30USD for a one way ticket with Jetstar.
Abel Tasman National Park
This place is a hiker’s paradise and serves a perfect way to pay homage to founder of New Zealand Abel Tasman. Located in the northwest corner of the Southern Island, you’ll be treated to a raw but tame experience in one of New Zealand’s most gorgeous national parks. Just take a look for yourself.
The trail is well maintained, clearly marked, and friendly to all fitness levels. Seriously, I encountered dozens of older British women who seemed as fresh as a daisy. Along the trail, I also had a chance sighting of the native Kiwi birds, who roamed throughout the park. Moreover, I recommend hiking in your swimsuit as you’ll have several chances to swim in many of the untouched white sand beaches that dot the coast of Tasman.
To get there, I drove one hour to Marahau from Nelson in order to catch my water taxi. Grab your snacks and water halfway in Motueka. With a seven hour hike, a liter of water, some mixed nuts, and a gas station chicken sandwich was enough during the hike.
I booked my water taxi in advance with Marahau Water Taxis. They offer a number of different options, of which I chose a one-way drop-off at Bark Bay for about $30USD. From Bark Bay, the hike back to Marahau is seven hours, however there are shorter options available. I admit that seven hours was my absolute limit, as my feet were quite sore by the end.
When you arrive in Marahau, you may want to grab a quick breakfast at the budget-friendly Hooked on Marahau Cafe adjoined to the the water taxi check-in office (inconspicuously marked by a sign “water taxis and kayaks“). You’ll be asked to stand ready to board at least ten minutes prior to your scheduled taxi. When it comes time, you’ll board the boat, and the boat driver will transfer the boat with a tractor, driving right into the shore about 300 yards.
From there, the captain will take you to the nearby Split Apple rock, then turn north towards the various drop-off destinations. Enjoy the lush, green coastal views along the way. At your drop-off point, be prepared to deboard into about three feet of water as there is no dock. Enjoy your hike through the incredible Abel Tasman National Park!
At the end of the hike, you’ll be ready for dinner. I recommend The Fat Tui, which has awesome (if a little zany) hamburgers.
Queen Charlotte Track
I’ll preface this section with the disclaimer that the Queen Charlotte Track was one of the most physically difficult feats I’ve ever endured. It may have been that I chose a bad route, opted to bike instead of hike, or perhaps my expectations just didn’t align with reality. While I wouldn’t do it again, I’m happy that I did it in retrospect. For all the trying moments, the unmatched views and the sense of accomplishment were worth the effort.
To start, I left Nelson early in the morning for a two hour drive to my water taxi in Picton, arriving by 6:45 AM. On my way, I stopped in Spring Creek at a handy grocery store that was open early, where they served fresh coffee, lattes, and light breakfast fare. I bought food and water for the day ahead as well as a coffee. Note that 1.5L of water wasn’t enough for me (I actually ran out 3/4 through), so consider 2L+.
When I arrived in Picton, I grabbed breakfast at Gusto, a cute joint with great food and even better presentation. It’s right around the corner from the car park near the water taxi dock. After finishing breakfast, I took my car to the car park, which cost $5NZD for the day. Having reserved my bike well in advance from Wilderness Guides, I arrived at their office by 7:15 AM from an 8:00 AM departure. My reservation also included the water taxi. I received a brief of the track, some safety guidelines, and adjustments to my bike hire.
The water taxi took us through the Queen Charlotte Sound, known for its calm waters and seemingly prehistoric landscapes. Along the way, you may see some penguins! After about 20 minutes across the sound, the first stop was mine, Torea Bay.
My route from Torea Bay to Punga Cove (sometimes called Camp Bay) was apparently uncommon and in the opposite direction of hikers. While a beautiful and worthy trail, it was often unforgivingly steep (especially with bike in hand). The trail starts with a climb up a paved roadway to a junction. After about 15 minutes, you arrive at a WWII monument, which marks an entry point to the trail.
The first 30-45 minutes are a steady climb, mostly unbikeable until you reach what will appear to be the top. Be warned that this is only the first of several peaks. From there, you will ascend and descend consistently until you reach the last quarter of the trail. As you progress, there are two to three toilets and four to five benches spaced evenly apart. Be warned that there are no restaurants or stores on the track. Cell service and data coverage are strong throughout the track however.
The pinnacle of the experience is Eatwells Lookout. You’ll arrive at a fork in the road that will clearly mark the lookout. Leave your bike at the beginning as the hike up to the lookout is especially steep. You’ll arrive at one of the most stunning views in New Zealand, so take your time.
From this point, it’s mostly downhill after one or two more hills. You’ll bike down to Punga Cove to catch the water taxi, and it’s likely that you’ll have an hour or so to swim at the cove and have pizza and drink at the restaurant located beside the dock. The restaurant is pricey! Be ready for the boat taxi to arrive from 4:15-4:45 PM.
