Queenstown
Queenstown is known as the adventure capitol of New Zealand. It’s a small city of about 25k permanent residents, but it packs a punch for its size. Choose from canyoning, bungee jumping, ziplining, mountain biking, hiking, sky diving, paragliding, kayaking, or luging. I chose the cheap, free, physically-enduring challenge of hiking the Ben Lomond Summit.
Stay at the Sir Cedrics Tahuna Pod Hostel. It was clean and offered a nice level of privacy, with curtains to draw for each bed. Equipped with single shower and bathrooms, it’s on the high end of quality for hostels offered at a great price.
Have lunch or dinner at Fergburger. I didn’t, and I regret it. It’s probably a tourist trap, but those aren’t always without merit. Queenstown also has high quality Thai and Japanese options. I had an excellent dinner at Minami Jujisei.
Ben Lomond Summit
This hike also surprised me in its rigor. Who knew scaling mountains could be so hard? The hike starts at Tiki Trail — located adjacent to the Queenstown Gondola — and takes upwards of 90 minutes to reach Bob’s Peak. Don’t be discouraged by the initial steepness of Tiki; it’s not necessarily a sign of what the next 6-7 hours will bring, though it certainly is a mid-grade hike all in all.
Once you reach the top of the Gondola (Bob’s Peak), I had to walk through the store and up some steps to find the beginning of the Ben Lomond trail. Note: this is your last chance for a real bathroom for the next five hours. As you begin this second portion of the hike, you’ll first cross through more forest for 45 minutes and then emerge into a more barren, mountainous landscape. The trail is uneven, rocky, and progressively steep. As I passed by a group that was coming back down, I asked which was the peak. As they pointed to the highest visible point, I was stunned that it was even possible to reach it by foot, not to mention that I would be there myself within a few hours.
Indeed, the trek will take upwards of 7 hours roundtrip. I hardly stopped the entire time until I reached the summit, and my hike went into six hours. You’ll want to have packed at least 1.5L of water, snacks, and perhaps a windbreaker (jumper) as the winds stir more towards the top.
Onsen Hot Pools
Before I left Queenstown, I was sure to pay a visit to the famous Onsen Hot Pools. While I was lucky to snag a morning spot one week prior, I would have preferred a late evening looking at the stars. However, my 9:30 AM appointment gave me a chance to experience the serenity of the gentle morning atmosphere overlooking Shotover river. To get your preferred time, book your pool six weeks or more in advance.
Central Otago to Dunedin
Because of cheaper airfare to my next destination of Wellington, I drove three hours from Queenstown to the coastal city of Dunedin. Both Dunedin and Queenstown are located within the region of Otago, which encompasses a great variety of landscapes. It’s hard to imagine how, but I found the drive through Central Otago to be even more beautiful than anything I had yet seen. From Queenstown, you weave through steep, colorful valleys, drive alongside roaring rivers and emerge into a hillside plane that is dotted by vineyards, orchards, and groves.
In various towns along one of three routes from Queenstown to Dunedin, you can find a bike hire. In particular, I recommend the Roxburgh Gorge Trail. It was more expensive and involved than I had in mind (about $100 for a water taxi and car transfer), however it was a highly appealing option to me. Part of the expense is the boat ride that is necessary through the Clutha River, though it is an experience in itself, not just a boring water taxi.
Adventure-seekers might consider the the Kawarau Bridge Bunjee Jump. Regardless of your decision, it’s a fun stop to at least see the bridge and watch others who make the plunge. Consider also stopping at the various roadside river views, which overlook several dams.
I did not find any particularly appealing restaurants along the way to Dunedin. If you know of any, please comment! And by the way, if you’re wondering about my car hire, I picked it up in Queenstown and dropped it off in Dunedin, which was a very easily made reservation at no additional cost with Jucy rentals.
Dunedin
Dunedin has a feel of being in Ann Arbor, Michigan or New Brunswick, New Jersey, which is to say a cool college town. Home to the University of Otago, Dunedin is a pleasant town sitting on the east coast of the South Island. It looks into the meeting point of the South Pacific and Southern Oceans.
My only object in Dunedin was to visit Tunnel Beach. Again, I was surprised by the length and rigor of the hike. It wasn’t terrible, but after five days of various hikes I was ready for a more leisurely stroll. I digress. The beach isn’t much for swimming. This is more of a place for reflection, to look quietly into the ocean, to feel the power of the waves crashing into the seaside cliffs, to smell the crisp ocean breeze. If you do wish to swim, it will be best to arrive during low tide as the water rises into the craggy rock bank during high tide.
After Tunnel Beach, you may want to explore more of the eastern shore. Head south 10 minutes to a car park leading to you immediately to an almost secret beach.
Once you’re back in Dunedin, it may make sense to visit Signal Hill close to sunset. This was recommended to me by a local once I arrived in Dunedin, but I was too tired to make the drive (or hike if you prefer) to the top. It does look very pretty though.
Other ideas:
Larnach Castle
George St. – This area is right next to the University of Otago and boasts great shopping and restaurants.
