On day two, I engaged the nature of São Miguel even more intimately. I had planned to do breakfast at Mercado da Graça, a farmers market in Ponta Delgada opened 7AM-6PM daily. I’ve read that it’s a great place for souvenirs and local food. Take a look at some of the pictures. While you’re there, don’t miss Igreja Matriz (Matriz Church), a 16th-century church featuring an elaborate facade, intricate interior wood carvings & a clocktower.
Lagoa do Fogo
Unfortunately, I woke up too late to catch breakfast, so in keeping with my itinerary I started towars the beautiful Lagoa do Fogo, a crater lake in the center of the island. On your drive towards Lake Fogo, you will reach one of the highest points on the island (Pico da Vara is actually the highest point). Be prepared to pull to the side of the road where possible to take in one of the island’s best views of both the east and west sides.
I admit that I was underwhelmed by Lake Fogo, primarily because it is among the most popular and accessible spots on the island and serves as a major stop for tour buses. It was hard to take in the serenity the lake is meant to impart with so many other tourists crowding the area.
But there is an opportunity to enjoy the lake away from the viewpoint if you are willing to go for a hike. From the miradora, you’ll easily find the starting point of a path that will take you down to the beachside of the lake. The hike will take 30 minutes to descend and about 40 minutes back up. There is a a more thorough (and worthy) hike that takes 3-4 hours roundtrip. Here’s a thorough write-up, which calls the hike one of the most beautiful on the island. High praise!
Furnas
As afternoon approached, I made my way towards Furnas, a small town known most for its fumaroles (hot springs or geysers). These aren’t the type of hot springs that people swim in, although there is a nearby option for that. While these don’t erupt quite the way that Yellowstone’s do, they are certainly a sight not to be missed. I got there by hiking down the mountainside which jets up right in front of the fumaroles, however there is also a carpark nearby if you don’t want to hike.
Before I started my hike, I grabbed lunch at the well-reviewed Tony’s Restaurant. Try to sit out on the second-story terrace. Like their Facebook page here.
After lunch, I drove to Miradouro do Pico do Ferro, the starting point of my hike. I was surprised to find this view among the most beautiful of my entire trip. After you’ve enjoyed the view, walk down the road about 100 yards where you’ll see a sign marking the beginning of the trail. It’s important to watch for the posts which provide directions along the trail. A red X indicates the wrong way, while a green vertical line indicates the right way. I went an hour out of the way by passing by a sign post and found myself rather lost and confused at a logging area. Note that I took the Grená – Pico do Ferro trail. The information here is complete and accurate.
Caldeira Velha
The hot spring of Caldeira Velha was the perfect way to unwind and relax after a full day of hiking. Located in the center of the island, Caldeira Velha is a mineral rich, naturally-heated water fall. The water flows into a small pool area that stays at 100° F. I was warned that I may have to wait to enter the pool as it is small and can only hold about 25 people at a time. However, evening seemed to be a low traffic time, so I was able to get in immediately without much crowding.
There is parking on two parts of the road and a small snack stand outside of the gates. It costs 3 euros to see the area and 8 euros if you want to go in the pools. The scenery alone is worth the trip. You’ll be immersed in a thick, green forest. The atmosphere is calm and peaceful. The sounds of nature put me immediately at ease. And the walk is all flat, taking 5-10 minutes. You will see some pools that you can go in, one with a waterfall. There are some steps up if you want to go into the pool with the waterfall. There is also an area behind a fence where the water is boiling. There is a small information center inside which explains the Caldeira. There are simple changing room areas and washrooms, which were clean.
Dinner
I finished the day with dinner at the well-reviewed Restaurante O Alambique near my Airbnb in Lagoa. Note that they’re closed on Mondays, but otherwise open 12:00 PM – 3:00 PM and 6:00 PM – 10:30 PM. Like their Facebook page here.