When I travel abroad, foreigners are routinely shocked at American attitudes towards leisure and time off. Our standard of 10-15 days off per year gives us enough time for plenty of long weekends but hardly enough for much time abroad. You may make $100k+, but if you only have 15 days of PTO each year, then that salary doesn’t do much good if you long to travel internationally.
In my own case, a trip to New Zealand for any reasonable amount of time proved challenging. But I’m here to tell you that it’s entirely possible, even if you can’t fly direct. With 6 days of PTO, I was able to enjoy nine days among the Kiwi people and see a vast swath of the country.
In this four part blog series, I’ll outline how I maximized my time on a budget without completely wearing myself down.
We start with New Zealand’s Coromandel Peninsula, which sits two to three hours east of Auckland in the North Island. It’s a must-see destination for any adventure seeker, for those looking for great photography and Instagram shots, and for anybody looking to unwind in a little known paradise.
New Chum’s Beach
New Chum’s is a hidden, pristine beach that has a feel of being untouched. At any point, there are so few people on the beach due to its prohibitive natural barriers. To get there, you’ll have to walk across an unstable stretch of large rocks for about half a mile until you reach a hiking trail, at which point you’re within 10 minutes walk through a forested area to the beach. The water is warm during summer, so come ready to swim and sunbath for a while.
In my mind, the best part of New Chum’s is its lookout at the top of the cliff adjacent to the beach. It’s a beautiful view for a 10 minute hike up the hill. The beginning of the trail to the top is easy to miss as it is not clearly marked. It will begin midway through your hike to the forested area. You’ll come to a high point along your walk where the trail starts to descend slightly. On your right (northeast) the trail to the top of the cliff will start. Climb to the top to get some stunning pictures; it’s one of the most instagramable spots in the Coromandel.
Be sure to park at the proper spot though. Google Maps will take you to a private road if you simply enter New Chum’s Beach. Instead, plug in the coordinates -36.7092533,175.6090272 to arrive at the New Chum’s Beach Car Park.
Cathedral Cove
Cathedral Cove is no secret. It’s the most touristy spot in the Coromandel. Don’t let this deter you, because it’s a natural monument. There are a number of ways to get there, but the best way is to take the Cathedral Cove walk. The trail down to the cove is a leisurely 45 minute stroll, and the flora and oceanside views are spectacular. It has a feel of tropical Oregon with its towering pine trees which stand among the palm trees. At the end of the trail, you’ll descend a few stairs. Look to your left for your first grand greeting with the cove.
In planning your visit to Cathedral Cove, choose a low tide time. I scheduled my own visit right at sunset, which is one of the better times to avoid crowds who ruin that perfect Instagram. It’s important to note that the car park is closed annually from October 1st – April 30th. A park and ride shuttle bus service operates from the visitor car park at the entrance to Hahei village. Full information here. Personally, I parked on the side of the road and walked about three quarters of a mile to the beginning of the Cathedral Cove Trail.
If you’re hungry, there are a few budget-friendly options at the bottom of Grange Road.
Hot Water Beach
The aptly named Hot Water Beach is made for the twilight. After digging through the beach’s soft sand to make your own hot pool, you can relax in the naturally heated water. The later you go, the better positioned you are for low tide and a small crowd.
Arrive in time to treat yourself to dinner at Hotties Beachfront Eatery. I had a delicious steak, a very refreshing rosé, and a splendid desert in the most tranquil setting. For a few fleeting moments, I felt at peace, without a concern in the world. Their wine menu is extensive, and if you don’t find quite what you’re looking for, then just ask for something off menu. Be warned that this place is a solid three dollar signs though.
After dinner, rent a shovel from the restaurant, and walk five minutes to the fault line to dig your own natural hot water spa. Had I not planned an early morning the follow day, I would have stayed out there until the early morning hours. I can hardly think of a better place in the world to clear your head and be completely in the moment, far from day-to-day worries.
Park at the Hot Water Beach car park (coordinates: -36.8886608,175.8241058), and arrive at low tide.
Town of Thames
To be clear, the Coromandel is known formally as the Thames-Coromandel District, of which the town of Thames is within it. I stayed overnight in Thames because a) I found a cheap hotel (the Agoda app gave me the cheapest rate), and b) the town took me within an hour of my next day’s destination (Karangahake). It occurs to me that it would be a good midway point for those traveling back to Auckland.
To be honest, I didn’t get the full feel of this town, however it struck me as a vibrant, proud town worthy of passing thoroughly through. It’s probably best for those seeking more relaxed sightseeing. I did very little research as it was a brief stopover, but I recommend Hotel Imperial and breakfast at the Bakehouse Cafe. You, too, may be amused by the thoroughly British breakfast fare they offer. Here are some more ideas if you have the time.
Karangahake Gorge/Mountain
For a deeper dive into the Coromandel, head to Karangahake. Whether you want to explore the very easy historic rail tunnel walk, a day of mountain biking, or hike the Karangahake Mountain peak, there’s something for everybody. In my own case, I decided to hike the mountain’s peak, called Trig Station. It’s a beautiful walk and well laid out, but know that you may encounter some unavoidable muddy spots and you’ll be tested by various inclines throughout the summit’s path. Here’s an excellent resource to plan your hike.
To compliment the trail’s signs, I recommend using Google Maps as the trail is outlined correctly and walking directions are provided. After you have it loaded up, follow it faithfully. At one point, I missed a sign and went an hour out of my way even as Google Maps told me to turn back the whole time.
